Grow Potatoes as Houseplants for Fun Blooms and Tiny Harvests
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So, can you really grow a potato plant houseplant indoors? Absolutely — and I’ve done it more times than I can count. Unlike your typical houseplants that hang around for years, a potato plant in a pot is a temporary but rewarding project. You’ll get several months of lush, dark green leaves and, if you’re lucky, delicate star-shaped flowers that brighten up your windowsill. I’ve harvested handfuls of tiny, edible potatoes from my indoor plants, and they taste way fresher than anything from the store. The best part? It takes about ten minutes of actual work — perfect for anyone who wants a fun, low-commitment houseplant that’s a conversation starter. In this guide, I’ll walk you through everything from picking the right potato to caring for your plant, so you can enjoy this quirky indoor experiment without any guesswork.
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- 1、Growing an Indoor Potato Plant
- 2、Step-by-Step Guide to Planting Your Potato Houseplant
- 3、Daily Care for Your Potato Plant Houseplant
- 4、Common Mistakes When Growing Indoor Potato Plants
- 5、What Happens After Your Potato Plant Dies Back
- 6、Creative Display Ideas for Your Potato Houseplant
- 7、Troubleshooting Your Indoor Potato Plant
- 8、Extending the Fun With Continuous Planting
- 9、Using Your Potato Plant as a Teaching Tool
- 10、Safety First: Toxicity and Pet Concerns
- 11、Comparing Potato Varieties for Indoor Growing
- 12、FAQs
Growing an Indoor Potato Plant
Why Grow Potatoes Inside Your Home
You might wonder why anyone would bother with a potato plant houseplant when you can just buy potatoes at the store. Trust me — I had the same thought the first time I tried it.
But here's the thing: growing a potato plant in a pot indoors gives you something store-bought spuds never will. You get to watch those dark green leaves unfurl from a simple chunk of potato, and if you're lucky, you'll see star-shaped blooms that look nothing like what you'd expect from a humble tater. I've done this maybe a dozen times over the years, and it never gets old. The leaves add a nice pop of green to a kitchen counter or windowsill, and the whole process takes maybe ten minutes of actual work. Plus, you get a small harvest of edible potatoes at the end — tiny ones, sure, but they taste way better than anything from a bag. It's not a forever plant like a pothos or snake plant, but for a few months of fun and greenery, it's totally worth your time.
How to Pick the Right Potato for Your Indoor Garden
Grab a potato from your kitchen — yes, that russet sitting in your pantry works just fine. You don't need fancy seed potatoes for this project.
I've used everything from organic Yukon Golds to plain old supermarket Russets, and they all grew just fine. The key is finding potatoes that have already started sprouting — those little bumps or "eyes" with tiny shoots coming out. If your potatoes look smooth and dormant, just pop them in an egg carton and set them on a sunny windowsill for a few days. You'll see sprouts appear, and that's your green light to move forward. Don't use potatoes that feel soft or have moldy spots, because they'll rot before they grow into a proper potato plant houseplant. One trick I learned the hard way: buy organic if you can, since non-organic potatoes sometimes get treated with sprout inhibitors that slow things down.
Step-by-Step Guide to Planting Your Potato Houseplant
Photos provided by pixabay
Preparing Your Potato Pieces
Cut your potato into chunks about 2 inches wide, making sure each piece has at least one or two eyes with sprouts. Think of each eye as a future plant.
Here's where patience pays off: after cutting, spread the chunks on newspaper or paper towels for about 24 hours. I know it feels like wasted time, but this step is crucial. Letting the cut surfaces dry and heal prevents rot and gives your potato plant houseplant a fighting chance. I once skipped this step because I was impatient, and three out of four chunks turned mushy within a week. The chunks with healed cuts? They sprouted beautifully. Place them in a dry, warm spot away from direct sunlight, and by the next day you'll see the cut edges look calloused and dry. That's exactly what you want before moving to the planting stage.
Choosing the Right Container and Soil
Grab a 6-inch pot with a drainage hole — without drainage, your potato plant in a pot will drown. Use standard commercial potting mix, not garden soil.
I recommend a pot that's at least 6 inches deep and wide, but here's a comparison to help you decide:
| Container Size | Best For | Expected Potato Harvest | Leaf Display Duration |
|---|---|---|---|
| 6-inch (15 cm) pot | Single plant, decorative display | About 3-5 small potatoes | 2-3 months |
| 8-10 inch (20-25 cm) pot | One plant with larger harvest | About 6-10 small potatoes | 3-4 months |
| 12+ inch (30+ cm) pot | Multiple plants or max harvest | Up to 15-20 small potatoes | 4-5 months |
I usually stick with a 6-inch pot for a single potato plant houseplant because it fits nicely on a windowsill. But if you're hoping to actually eat the potatoes you harvest, go bigger. Just remember: bigger pots need less frequent watering, which makes them more forgiving for beginners. Fill the pot with moist potting mix — not dripping wet, just damp enough that a squeeze releases a drop or two of water.
Daily Care for Your Potato Plant Houseplant
Watering and Sunlight Requirements
Water your potato plant in a pot when the top inch of soil feels dry. Stick your finger in the dirt — if it's dry at your fingertip, it's time to water.
This is where most people mess up, myself included at first. Overwatering kills more indoor potato plants than anything else. You want the soil to stay consistently moist, not soggy. Think of it like a wrung-out sponge. Put your pot in a warm room where it gets at least 4-6 hours of sunlight daily. A south or west-facing window works perfectly. I've tried east-facing windows too, and the plants grow slower but still produce decent leaves. If you notice the stems getting long and leggy, that means your plant is reaching for more light — move it to a brighter spot. One trick I use: rotate the pot every few days so all sides get equal light. Otherwise, your potato plant houseplant will lean toward the window like it's trying to escape.
Photos provided by pixabay
Preparing Your Potato Pieces
Feed your potato plant houseplant with a balanced liquid fertilizer every 2-3 weeks during active growth. Use half the recommended strength to avoid burning the roots.
Potatoes aren't heavy feeders, but they appreciate a little boost. I use a standard 10-10-10 fertilizer diluted to half strength, and I've seen noticeable differences in leaf color and size. Skip fertilizing entirely if your plant is near the end of its life cycle — you'll notice the leaves start yellowing and dying back, which is normal. Keep temperatures between 60-75°F (15-24°C). Anything above 80°F (27°C) can stress the plant, and below 50°F (10°C) will slow growth to a crawl. I learned this the hard way when I put one near a drafty window in January — the leaves turned yellow within a week. Move it away from heating vents and cold drafts, and your potato plant in a pot will reward you with steady growth.
Common Mistakes When Growing Indoor Potato Plants
Using the Wrong Potato or Container
Don't grab a potato that's been sitting in your fridge for months — it's likely too dehydrated to sprout. Also, avoid pots without drainage holes.
I've seen people try growing potatoes in mason jars, decorative pots without holes, and even plastic bags. None of those work well. Without drainage, the potato pieces rot before they even have a chance to grow. And using a potato that's already shriveled or soft? You're basically planting dead material. Stick with firm, fresh potatoes that have visible sprouts, and use a container that lets excess water escape. Another mistake: planting the chunk too shallow. If you don't bury it about 3 inches deep, the developing roots won't have enough room, and the leaves might push the potato piece right out of the soil. I've had that happen — you come back after a week and find the chunk sitting on top of the dirt like it's trying to escape.
Overwatering or Underwatering Your Plant
Water your potato plant houseplant only when the top inch of soil feels dry. Stick to a routine, but adjust based on your home's humidity.
Here's a question you might be asking yourself: Can you really kill a potato plant by watering it wrong? Yes, absolutely — and it's one of the most common reasons indoor potato plants fail. When you overwater, the soil becomes waterlogged, and the potato chunk starts to rot from the inside out. You'll notice the leaves turning yellow and the stems getting mushy near the base. Underwatering, on the other hand, makes the leaves droop and curl at the edges. I keep a simple schedule: check the soil every other day, and water only when it feels dry at my fingertip. In winter when my apartment gets dry from the heater, I might water twice a week. In summer, once every 4-5 days. Use room-temperature water — cold water can shock the roots and slow growth. A moisture meter can help if you're unsure, but your finger works just fine.
What Happens After Your Potato Plant Dies Back
Photos provided by pixabay
Preparing Your Potato Pieces
When the leaves turn yellow and die back completely, your potato plant in a pot is done growing. That's when you dump out the pot and see what's underneath.
This part feels like a treasure hunt every single time. Carefully tip the pot over onto a newspaper, and gently sift through the soil with your fingers. You'll find small potatoes ranging from marble-sized to maybe golf ball-sized. Don't expect supermarket-sized spuds — indoor containers just don't have enough room for that. But these tiny potatoes are tender and flavorful, perfect for roasting whole or boiling. I usually get about 5-8 potatoes from a 6-inch pot, and they taste noticeably sweeter than anything from the store. One tip: let the harvested potatoes sit in a cool, dark place for a few days before eating — it helps the skins thicken up and improves the flavor. Rinse them gently and use them within a week or two, since they don't store as long as store-bought ones.
Composting and Reusing Your Soil
Don't toss that soil — you can reuse it for other houseplants or mix it into your garden. Just remove any remaining potato pieces first.
Here's another question you might be wondering: Will you actually eat the potatoes you grow indoors, or are they just for decoration? In my experience, you'll probably eat some and give others away as a fun novelty. The taste is genuinely good — earthy and fresh, with a texture that's creamier than store-bought potatoes. I once served a handful of roasted indoor potatoes at a dinner party, and everyone asked where I bought them. When I said "from a pot on my windowsill," they didn't believe me. The soil itself can go straight into your outdoor garden beds or get mixed into a compost pile. Avoid reusing the same soil for another potato plant because it might harbor diseases that attack nightshade crops. But it's perfectly fine for flowers, herbs, or leafy greens.
Creative Display Ideas for Your Potato Houseplant
Pairing With Other Indoor Plants
Place your potato plant houseplant alongside other greenery like pothos or spider plants for a varied display. The dark green potato leaves contrast nicely with trailing plants.
I like grouping my potato plant in a pot with plants that have different leaf shapes and textures. The broad, slightly fuzzy leaves of potato plants stand out next to the long, narrow leaves of a snake plant. You can also place it on a plant stand or shelf where the leaves can cascade slightly over the edge. Just make sure all plants in the group have similar water and light needs — your potato plant wants consistent moisture and bright indirect light, so pair it with plants that share those preferences. Avoid putting it right next to a cactus or succulent that prefers dry soil. I once made that mistake, and I ended up either overwatering the succulent or underwatering the potato. Neither plant was happy. Keep them in separate pots so you can adjust care individually.
Using Decorative Pots and Labels
Your potato plant houseplant deserves a nice home. Use a colorful ceramic pot or a simple terracotta one — both work great as long as they have drainage holes.
I've used everything from a bright yellow pot to a plain clay one, and the potatoes don't care either way. But you might enjoy the aesthetic more. One fun idea: add a small label or marker that says "potato plant" so visitors ask about it. It's a great conversation starter. You can also use a clear glass container as an outer cachepot — just remember to take the pot out when watering so excess water doesn't pool at the bottom. Avoid pots that are too dark in color if your windowsill gets direct afternoon sun, because dark pots absorb heat and can cook the roots. Light-colored or terracotta pots stay cooler and let the soil breathe. I prefer terracotta because it wicks away excess moisture, which helps prevent overwatering issues.
Troubleshooting Your Indoor Potato Plant
Yellow Leaves and Stunted Growth
Yellow leaves usually mean too much water, not enough light, or the plant reaching the end of its life. Check your care routine first.
If you see yellow leaves early in the plant's life, don't panic. First, check the soil moisture — if it's soggy, let it dry out for a few days before watering again. If the soil is dry and the leaves are still yellow, move the pot to a brighter spot. I've also noticed that nutrient deficiencies can cause yellowing, especially if you haven't fertilized at all. Apply a balanced fertilizer at half strength and see if the new leaves look greener. Another possibility: the plant is simply finishing its life cycle. Potato plants live for 3-5 months indoors, and yellowing leaves near the 3-month mark are normal. One thing I check every time: the stem base for any signs of rot or mold. If the stem feels mushy near the soil line, the potato chunk is rotting, and there's not much you can do except start over with fresh soil and a new potato.
Pests on Your Potato Plant Houseplant
Watch for aphids and spider mites — they love the tender new growth on potato plants. Catch them early before they spread.
I've dealt with aphids on indoor potato plants at least three times. They show up as tiny green or black bugs clustered on the undersides of leaves and on new stems. The fastest solution: spray the plant with a mixture of water and a few drops of dish soap. Test it on one leaf first, then spray the whole plant if there's no reaction. Repeat every 3-4 days until the pests are gone. Spider mites are trickier — you'll see fine webbing between leaves and stems. Increase humidity around the plant by misting regularly or placing a tray of water nearby. Isolate any infected plant immediately to prevent pests from spreading to your other houseplants. I keep my potato plant in a separate room for the first week just to make sure it's pest-free. Fungus gnats can also show up if the soil stays too wet — let the top inch dry out completely between waterings to discourage them.
Extending the Fun With Continuous Planting
Staggering Your Potato Plantings
Plant a new potato chunk every 4-6 weeks for a continuous supply of indoor greenery. This way, you always have a potato plant houseplant at its peak.
I keep three pots going at different stages — one just planted, one with full leaves, and one that's starting to flower or die back. Rotating them keeps my windowsill looking fresh year-round. Use a calendar or set a reminder on your phone to start a new potato every month. Each plant lasts about 3-5 months, so with three pots staggered, you always have at least one looking its best. The dying one can go to the compost pile, and you harvest its tiny potatoes. Don't reuse the same soil for consecutive plantings — fresh potting mix gives your new potato plant the best start. I've tried reusing soil and got smaller plants and fewer potatoes each time. It's not worth the small savings. Buy a fresh bag of potting mix every few months, and your indoor potato plants will thank you.
Growing Different Potato Varieties Indoors
Try different types of potatoes for variety in leaf color and growth habits. Purple potatoes, fingerlings, and Yukon Golds all work well.
I've tested about five different varieties indoors, and they all grow, but some do better than others. Yukon Golds produce the most lush, dark green leaves. Purple potatoes have a slightly more compact growth habit and beautiful deep purple stems. Fingerlings grow a bit slower but produce longer, more slender leaves. Red potatoes tend to sprout faster than Russets in my experience, so they're great if you're impatient. One thing to note: the potatoes you harvest will match the parent variety, so if you plant a purple potato, you'll get tiny purple spuds. It's a fun surprise for kids or dinner guests. Just remember that all potato plants — regardless of variety — have the same basic care needs: bright light, consistent moisture, and warm temperatures. Pick whatever looks good at the grocery store and give it a try.
Using Your Potato Plant as a Teaching Tool
Watching the Roots Grow: A Window into Plant Biology
Plant a potato chunk in a clear glass jar so you can see the roots develop. It's like a living science experiment right on your counter.
I've done this with my niece, and she was fascinated. Within a week, white roots start snaking down through the soil, and within two weeks, you'll see tiny root hairs branching off. You can actually watch the potato piece shrink as the plant uses its stored energy. This is a perfect way to explain how plants get their food — the potato acts like a battery pack. Use a wide-mouth mason jar and fill it with clear glass beads or pebbles instead of soil so you can see the roots without any dirt blocking the view. Just keep the water level below the potato chunk to prevent rot. I've kept a jar on my desk for months, and it's a great conversation starter. You'll notice the roots grow toward the bottom and the stems reach for the light — it's basic plant physics in action. Try this with kids and ask them to guess which way the roots will grow first.
Tracking Growth Stages with Kids
Create a simple chart with dates and drawings of your potato plant houseplant. Kids love checking off milestones like first leaf, first flower, and harvest day.
I started a growth journal with my neighbor's daughter last spring, and she recorded everything: when the first sprout broke the soil, when the leaves unfurled, even when the plant started leaning toward the window. We used a ruler to measure height every week and plotted it on a graph. The potato plant grew about an inch every 5-7 days, which gave her a clear sense of time and growth rates. You can also take photos each week and compile them into a time-lapse video — that's a fun project for older kids. One thing I recommend: let kids water the plant themselves (with supervision) so they feel ownership. They'll be more invested in the outcome. When it comes time to harvest, let them dig through the soil with their fingers. The tiny potatoes feel like buried treasure. I've seen kids who normally hate vegetables get excited about eating the potatoes they grew themselves. It's a powerful way to teach where food comes from.
Safety First: Toxicity and Pet Concerns
Understanding Solanine in Potato Plants
Potato plants contain solanine, a natural toxin found in all nightshade family members. The green parts — leaves, stems, and green potatoes — are the most toxic.
Here's a question you might be asking: Should I worry about my cat or dog nibbling on my potato plant houseplant? Yes, you should take it seriously. Solanine can cause vomiting, diarrhea, drooling, and in severe cases, neurological symptoms like confusion or lethargy. The amounts in a typical indoor potato plant aren't usually lethal, but they can make your pet miserable. I've had a cat that ignored my potato plant completely, but my friend's dog chewed on a leaf and ended up with an upset stomach for two days. The green parts have the highest concentration, especially if the potato has been exposed to light and turned green. If you have curious pets, place the pot somewhere they can't reach — a high shelf or a hanging planter works well. And never leave harvested potatoes lying around where pets can eat them raw. Cooked potatoes are safe for pets in small amounts, but green or raw potatoes are not. If you suspect your pet ate any part of the plant, call your vet right away.
Creating a Pet-Safe Indoor Garden
Place your potato plant in a spot that's hard for pets to reach — think high shelves, hanging baskets, or closed-off rooms. Training your pet to stay away from plants works too, but it's not foolproof.
I've had dogs and cats over the years, and I've learned that prevention is better than cure. Hanging planters are ideal for potato plants because the stems trail down and pets can't easily grab them. If you use a tabletop pot, put it on a pedestal or a tall plant stand. Another option: surround the pot with a decorative grid or cage that pets can't squeeze through. Bitter apple spray applied to the leaves can deter some pets from chewing, but test it on a small area first to make sure it doesn't damage the plant. Consider growing a separate cat grass or catnip plant nearby — that gives your pet a safe alternative to nibble on. I keep a pot of cat grass next to my potato plant, and my cat mostly ignores the potato. Remember: even if your pet doesn't show interest, it's better to be safe than sorry. The solanine content varies from plant to plant, and you can't tell by looking whether a leaf is especially toxic. Keep the potato plant houseplant away from toddlers too — they're just as likely to put leaves in their mouths.
Comparing Potato Varieties for Indoor Growing
Which Potato Grows Best in a Pot?
Not all potatoes are created equal when it comes to indoor performance. I've tested several varieties and here's what I found.
Based on my personal trials over the past few years, I put together a quick comparison to help you decide. Remember, these are rough estimates from my own experience — your mileage may vary depending on your light and temperature.
| Variety | Time to Sprout | Leaf Growth | Harvest Size (6-inch pot) | Ease of Care |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Yukon Gold | 5-7 days | Lush, dark green | 5-8 small potatoes | Easy |
| Red Pontiac | 3-5 days | Moderate, slightly lighter green | 4-6 small potatoes | Very easy |
| Russet | 7-10 days | Tall, leggy if not enough light | 3-5 small potatoes | Moderate |
| Purple Peruvian | 5-8 days | Compact, deep purple stems | 4-7 small potatoes | Easy |
| Fingerling | 6-9 days | Slender, longer leaves | 3-5 small potatoes | Moderate |
Yukon Gold and Red Pontiac are my top picks for beginners because they sprout quickly and grow reliably. Russets need more light to stay compact — I've had them get leggy in dim corners. Purple potatoes are a fun novelty, and the dark stems add visual interest even before the leaves open. Fingerlings take a bit longer but produce interesting elongated potatoes. Whichever you choose, start with organic potatoes whenever possible to avoid sprout inhibitors. The table above is based on my own notes, not a scientific study, so take it as a guideline. Try a couple of varieties side by side and see which one does best in your home.
Why Variety Matters for Your Space
Different varieties have different growth habits. Choose a variety that fits the light and space you have available.
If your windowsill gets only moderate light, go with Red Pontiac — it's the most forgiving of lower light conditions. I've grown it in an east-facing window with only 3-4 hours of direct sun, and it still produced decent leaves and a few small potatoes. For a south-facing window with lots of light, try Yukon Gold or Purple Peruvian. They'll reward you with the fullest foliage. One thing to consider: if you're growing mainly for the leaves, choose a variety that stays compact and bushy rather than tall and leggy. Purple Peruvian is naturally compact, while Russets tend to stretch. Also think about the harvest: if you want more potatoes to eat, go with a larger pot and a variety known for higher yields. In my experience, Yukon Gold gives the best balance of leaf display and harvest size. But if you're just in it for the fun of watching something grow, any potato will work. Don't overthink it — pick a potato that looks good at the store and give it a try.
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FAQs
Q: Can you really grow a potato plant houseplant that lasts for months, or is it just a temporary novelty?
A: Absolutely, you can grow a potato plant houseplant, and it is not just a novelty — it actually provides beautiful dark green foliage for several months. I have grown them about a dozen times, and each plant typically lasts 3 to 5 months before it naturally dies back. You get to watch the leaves unfurl from a simple potato chunk, and if you are lucky, you will see star-shaped blooms near the end of its life. The key is giving it bright indirect light, consistent moisture, and a warm spot away from drafts. While it is not a permanent houseplant like a pothos or snake plant, it offers a fun, low-effort gardening experience. Plus, you can harvest a handful of tiny, edible potatoes at the end. I recommend planting a new potato chunk every 4 to 6 weeks. That way, you always have a potato plant houseplant at its peak, and your windowsill stays green and interesting year-round.
Q: What is the biggest mistake people make when trying to grow an indoor potato plant?
A: The biggest mistake I see — and I have made it myself — is overwatering or using a pot without drainage holes. A potato plant in a pot needs consistent moisture, but soggy soil will rot the potato chunk before it even has a chance to grow. I once skipped the 24-hour drying step after cutting the potato, and three out of four chunks turned mushy within a week. Another common error: planting the chunk too shallow. You need to bury it about 3 inches deep, or the developing roots will push the potato piece right out of the soil. Also, avoid using potatoes that feel soft or have moldy spots. Stick with firm, fresh potatoes that have visible sprouts. And here is a quick tip: buy organic if you can, because non-organic potatoes are often treated with sprout inhibitors. I have found that organic Yukon Golds or Russets sprout faster and produce healthier potato plant houseplants every time.
Q: Can you actually harvest edible potatoes from a potato plant houseplant, or are they just for decoration?
A: Yes, you can absolutely harvest edible potatoes, and they taste surprisingly good. I have harvested tiny potatoes from my indoor plants multiple times, and they are noticeably sweeter and creamier than store-bought ones. From a 6-inch pot, I usually get about 5 to 8 small potatoes, ranging from marble-sized to golf ball-sized. Do not expect supermarket-sized spuds, because indoor containers just do not have enough room for that. But those tiny potatoes are perfect for roasting whole or boiling. One tip I learned: let the harvested potatoes sit in a cool, dark place for a few days before eating. This helps the skins thicken up and improves the flavor. Rinse them gently and use them within a week or two, since they do not store as long as store-bought ones. I once served a handful of roasted indoor potatoes at a dinner party, and everyone asked where I bought them. When I said "from a pot on my windowsill," they did not believe me. It is a fun, rewarding payoff for a potato plant houseplant.
Q: What should you do when your potato plant houseplant starts to die back — is it dead forever?
A: When the leaves turn yellow and die back completely, your potato plant in a pot has finished its life cycle. That is normal, and it is not dead forever in the sense that you can start a new one. At this point, carefully tip the pot over onto a newspaper and sift through the soil with your fingers. You will find small potatoes ready for harvest. After harvesting, do not toss the soil — you can reuse it for other houseplants or mix it into your garden beds. Just remove any remaining potato pieces first. However, avoid reusing the same soil for another potato plant, because it might harbor diseases that attack nightshade crops. It is perfectly fine for flowers, herbs, or leafy greens. I keep three pots going at different stages: one just planted, one with full leaves, and one that is starting to flower or die back. This way, I always have a potato plant houseplant at its peak. Use a calendar or set a reminder on your phone to start a new potato every month, and you will have continuous greenery and harvests.
Q: Are there specific potato varieties that work better as a potato plant houseplant, or can you use any type?
A: You can use almost any potato variety, but I have tested about five different types indoors, and some definitely perform better. Yukon Golds produce the most lush, dark green leaves and are my personal favorite for a potato plant houseplant. Purple potatoes have a slightly more compact growth habit and beautiful deep purple stems, which add a unique visual element. Fingerlings grow a bit slower but produce longer, more slender leaves. Red potatoes tend to sprout faster than Russets in my experience, so they are great if you are impatient. One thing to note: the potatoes you harvest will match the parent variety, so if you plant a purple potato, you will get tiny purple spuds — it is a fun surprise for kids or dinner guests. All potato varieties have the same basic care needs: bright light, consistent moisture, and warm temperatures between 60-75°F. Pick whatever looks good at the grocery store, preferably organic, and give it a try. I have had success with all of them, and the variety keeps things interesting on my windowsill.

